Great Climbing Films

Climbing is really quite easy to do but notoriously hard to film. Anyone who has been involved in making even a small production of their own realises the logistical difficulties and the problem of making climbing 'interesting' - watching climbers move slowly over a rock face is a rather disembodied experience. And how on earth do you make movies about alpine climbs?!

I was thinking of the 'great' climbing movies (pointedly ignoring 'Cliffhanger') and my thoughts ran back to the excellent thriller The Eiger Sanction with Clint Eastwood and George Kennedy made during the Cold War hysteria in 1975. Since then there have been a few notable high-profile films such as the rather corny 1991 'mountain-buddy' movie K2, the superb Touching the Void by Kevin MacDonald in 2003 and now I think we have the best yet in 2009 - the superb Nordwand (North Face) directed by Philipp Stolzl.

Nordwand relates the tragic chain of events in July 1936 which led two talented German climbers (Toni Kurz and Andi Hinterstoisser) close to the first ascent of the Eiger north face, before turning back to help fellow climbers. The slowly unfolding tale of small errors and fateful combinations eats away at their goal as they try to ascend the mountain. Avalanches and rockfall and exposure threaten them all while the world's media looks on in macabre glee at the unfolding tale of tragedy through the hotels' telescopes. A well-crafted movie with great characterisation and a real feeling of exposure in the action sequences, with the constant ringing of hammered pitons in the background, this movie captures the ambiguous motivations of mountaineering but ends suitably with the purity of some climbers' sacrifices.

The Sky Handbook

The Sky Handbook has just been published and it's everything to do about the sky above, not Skye the island as some have thought! It's a book from my other life as an author and writer, and if you think you might want to buy one as a gift or for yourself, follow the link below and thankyou in advance!!

THE SKY HANDBOOK

This book is ideal for a gift...and anyone interested in the cosmos, the stars and our planet's future. It's perfect for the intelligent child (is that not every child?!) and for any adults who are confused about the stars and climate change etc (that would be most adults)...this book will clear things up!!

It introduces the mysteries of the universe to us, covering: the origins of our universe; the stars, constellations and solar system; astronomers; our atmosphere and weather, phenomena from the Aurora Borealis to tornadoes; flight and space exploration; pollution; climate change and more!

John Watson is an author, publisher, climber and keen stargazer. He is founder of Stone Country Press, an independent Scottish publisher dedicated to books and guides on landscapes and the outdoors. Michael Kerrigan is an author and critic whose previous works include books on history, geography, exploration and the natural world.

You can preview and buy (only £14.99 for 400 pages!) at:

www.stonecountry.co.uk

Just Published! - 100 Years Ago

This is a centennial nod to grander times. In a light-hearted note and with top respect for the first generation of climbers (see the pic below, now that's bold), I came across some useful (and not so useful) notes from Claude Benson's superb 'British Mountaineering', published 100 years ago.


It includes a chapter on bouldering no less, though they did call it 'rock gymnastics', as though they were slightly ashamed of the low-ball games of blocage. The book is a delight throughout, capturing the lost nuances of climbing as it was with no little humour and some sage advice. What is most encouraging is that not much has changed - Claude is still obsessed with gear and like a safety-Nazi 'floorwalker' he bores rigidly about techniques (quite rightly, of course, we want to pursue risk safely you know). He does witter on a bit about the 'tweenie maid' (mmm, enough said... ) - reassuringly, however, he suffers the same frustrations we still do today: A new rope is troublesome. It kinks most obstinately. So with fond apologies to Mr. Benson, here are a few of his more poignant obeservations:

"Gaiters - No one who has worn puttees will ever think of gaiters again. Some people use Fox's Spiral Puttees, but, personally, I prefer the coarse Tommy Atkins' puttee as being better fitted for the rough work, as well as cheaper..."

Ah no, Claude, buy cheap, buy twice...!

"I am blest with a basement staircase of stone, and at various points of the day I am to be found hanging by my fingertips to the outside thereof."

Claude, you just invented the campus board: finger-criminal!

"I recommend all who can to imitate me. Let not false shame prevent them. Let them be bold, and brave the suppressed laughter of the tweenie maid."

'Tweenies' now appear on CBeebies, or is it more sinister than that?

"Shirts - Flannel is the best material. Those made to take a detachable collar are the neatest."

Those modern wicking tops just aren't cool...

"Rope - there is only one kind of rope, the very best, the Alpine Club rope. It is to be purchased at Arthur Beale's, 194, Shaftebury Avenue, London, W.C., or at accredited agents."

See if they have one in the stock room, Gus.

"Rucksacks - See that there are separate pockets in the rucksack. It is just as well to keep your lunch, your hair brush, and your slippers apart."

Claude, I'm not sure if you mean rock slippers or rocking-chair slippers?

"Most of the dangers connected with British mountaineering are unjustly debited to rock-climbing. This is a mistake and a mischievous mistake."

BBC reports a 'climber' plunged 600 feet' - some eejit in new crampons in June on a rock ridge: familiar?

"Never despise the smallest foothold. A 'toe-scrape' may make just the difference of getting up or down..."

Ah, you mean 'smearing', don't you Claude?

"As a matter of fact, provided a man can go steadily and safely, I think he may be entrusted with the care of his own legs and feet without printed regulations, and the same is true of the position of his hands on the axe. Sitting glissades are generally deprecated, though there is no form more common amongst beginners except that on the broad of the back..."

''without printed regulations"... well said Claude, you would have hated this century, I think...

Dumby Dyno Done - Mr Tickle 8a

Will Atkinson finally succeeded on the aesthetic and athletic Pongo dyno at 8a which is sure to become a classic testpiece as there are so few dynos at the Rock. Here's the vid... I particularly like the little dancing feet at the end.

Mr Tickle (first ascent) from Willackers on Vimeo.